Saturday, 12 March 2011

Corrective Concealer

I have had quite a few people ask me about "those colored concealers", how to use them, what they are, what they are good for, and many other things, so I thought it would be a good idea to do a post on them!
    Those colored concealers are actually used to cover up imperfections in our skin that skin toned foundation and concealers don't always hide. They can tend to get cakey sometimes if not used right, so if you're just starting out with them you may want to mix a little bit of your regular skin toned concealer with them before you apply.
    How do they work? They work based on color theory. It's quite easy actually, you just look at the color of the spot you want to cover and use the color that is opposite of it on the color wheel to cancel it out (ex: green covers red). A quick and easy way to find out what color corrector to use for your specific imperfections is the color wheel, they can basically be found anywhere, you can search one online, get them at paint shops, and multiple other places.
    There are many different techniques to using these so your best bet is to use trial and error to see which way works best for you personally. Some people prefer to use a concealer brush or spatula to mix the concealer in the pan to make it more creamy, and warm it so it blends better and will not be as cakey when applied. Other like to place the product on the back of their hand and apply it with they fingers to use their body heat to warm it. While others just like to use it as they would a regular concealer. Whichever way you prefer to prep your product is your own preference but once it is ready to be applied I recommend using a concealer brush or sponge to place the concealer directly in the middle of the spot/imperfection you wish to cover and then blend outwards. Once you are finished that cover it with a regular skin toned concealer, followed by foundation and a powder to set.
    I am going to do a run down of the most common correctors, what color they cancel out and some common imperfections they are used for.

-Green: This is the most common color corrector you will find, it can sometimes be the most sheer and easiest to use. It is used to cancel out redness. Common uses are for rosacea, broken capillaries, blemishes, acne, red scars, port wine birthmarks, and occasionally under eye circles or bruises.

-Yellow: Used to cancel purple. Common uses are for freckles, under eye circles, veins, tattoos, age spots, dark moles, blue blood vessels, and bruises.

-Pink: Used to over brown spots, scars and occasionally under eyes.

-Purple: Cancels yellow. This corrector is commonly used by people with olive skin tones, or on fading bruises.

-Blue: Used to cancel orange. This corrector isn't overly common but it tends to be used to cover blotchy skin or self tanner mishaps.

-Peach: Although this isn't a conventional color quite a few corrector palettes have one because it is commonly used to cover dark under eye circles. Some people prefer this over green correctors because it is a bit easier to use, depending on the formula.

Some alternatives to using a color corrector on red blemishes are to apply visine for red eyes on to a cotton ball then hold onto blemish for a couple of minutes, this tends to work just as well for blemishes as it does for eye redness.
If you wish to reduce the swelling in a blemish cover it with a thin layer of Preperation H a few minutes before you are ready for concealer.

I hope this helps! If you have any more questions or concerns don't hesitate to comment :)


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